I love Savannah, Georgia. I had a pretty good feeling long before I ever booked my hotel that I would dig on this peach of a town. It does remind me of New Orleans --always a plus -- only it's smaller and, well, cleaner. Also, it's not devastated by a hurricane and left to rot in the sun by the U.S. government. (Savannah is much whiter than New Orleans, so I'm sure that helps.)
Monday, December 17, 2007
Oh, Savannah, Oh Don't You Cry for Me!
I love Savannah, Georgia. I had a pretty good feeling long before I ever booked my hotel that I would dig on this peach of a town. It does remind me of New Orleans --always a plus -- only it's smaller and, well, cleaner. Also, it's not devastated by a hurricane and left to rot in the sun by the U.S. government. (Savannah is much whiter than New Orleans, so I'm sure that helps.)
Which leads me to ask you a question... what's with all the Irish in Savannah? I've just checked with Wikipedia.org and that was no help. Awful lot of Irish wound up in New Orleans, too. Just curious.
Niels and I arrived in Savannah Thursday night after literally being turned back by a blocked road not 3 miles from his house. I was convinced we were heading toward the Weekend of Doom because I'd had a bad day and I'd had a black cat dart in front of my car right before I got to Niels' house. There were some bumps along the way - a mixup with the hotel reservation, bad traffic, etc.- but it certainly did not turn into the Weekend of Doom. It was, indeed, the Weekend of Awesome (Hangovers).
Friday morning we woke up bright and "early" and walked down to the
River Street to enjoy the water and bridge views. We had lunch at Tubby's, Niels sipping on a pre-noon beer and both of us reveling in the fresh seafood - shrimp and an unbelievably good blackened mahi mahi. Yum! After lunch overlooking the river and watching a tanker sail by, we did the touristy shopping thang and stopped in at all the shops on River Street, finally ending with one of the 3,000 old-timey candy stores in Savannah. (Tourism pays.) Loaded down with chocolate-covered pretzels, chocolate-coated s'mores and chocolate-glazed marshmallows, he grabbed some coffee before driving to the beach on Tybee Island.
Tybe Island is where I would like to live... starting now. OK, now. How about now? It's this insane little paradise full of Carribean-inspired beach houses nestled next to old-timey '50s Florida homes and hardy New England Cape Cods.
And palmettos, scrub pines and more line the streets. We drove around for an hour just enjoying the incredible homes. We also enjoyed being on the beach in bare feet on Dec. 14. It wasn't warm enough to swim but it was a warm and relaxing day.
Afterwards, we did some more auto-site-seeing and then went to Murphy's
Law for dinner. The best corned beef sandwich I've ever had lives there. Truly. Amazing. Succulent - it's actually written like that on the menu... and it's actually true! Then it was on to the Haunted Pub Crawl, which started down the street at Molly MacPherson's.
Strange things were afoot at the start of the tour. Firstly, our tour guide was actually the 8 o'clock guide, but the 9 o'clock guide called out, so 8 o'clock guy doubled back to Molly's with his 8 o'clock crowd -- a very cheery, pub-y crowd. In that group was a woman named Lisa... she grew up in Smithtown, on the north shore of Long Island. She went to law school in New Orleans. She now lives in Atlanta. (Anybody see any parallels to my life???) We had a lot in common.
So, with a half-drunk group in tow, we began the tour. It wasn't very scary. It wasn't scary at all. But it was historically delicious and there is no open-container law in Savannah so we could toddle along from bar to bar with plastic cups and grins displayed.
And many beers were had. And then many shots were had. And then it was morning. And then it was closer to noon. And then Niels and I struggled to leave the hotel. And then it was raining all day. We drove around enjoying the gorgeous neighborhoods of Savannah. Eventually, in the evening we managed to amble over to the City Market for some fresh air.
After returning to the hotel and getting all gussied up, we walked over to
the Chart House. It was a busy restaurant, but the atmosphere was cozy and the food was sensational. More shrimp met their maker in the form of my belly that night... it was heaven for me, anyway.
We had plans to make great use of the hot tub in the room that night... but the flail was mighty after that meal and all I could manage was watching some TV before falling asleep. :)
Sunday: It was cold. We packed up, stopping at Parker's Gourmet Market for gas and supplies on the way out of town. We hit traffic. We sat in traffic. We got home.
I love Savannah. Heh.
Labels:
beer,
Chart House,
El Cheapo,
Haunted Pub Crawl,
Irish,
Niels,
River Street,
Savannah
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6 comments:
You are just too damn cute, and I'm thrilled for you. Nothing better in the world than going somewhere and having fun with someone you enjoy. That's awesome.
I too love Savannah and since it's where the hubby and I went for our honeymoon it will always hold a special place in my heart. It's such an adorable place and I love hanging out on River Street. Tybee Island is also awesome.
Savannah is one of my favorite places. The Irish immigrated there early on, and I believe the Irish founded Savannah. St. Patrick's Day there is second only in size to New York's.
And yes, the lack of open container laws is lovely.
The sequel to "Gone With the Wind," called "Scarlett" has a lot of Savannah in it.
I haven't been to Savannah, but decided I loved it after seeing Tybee Island houses on an HGTV show.
And you had some fresh mahi mahi AND a fun boy? Two thumbs up.
To answer your question, "What is with all the Irish in Savannah?" I will give you a brief reply, realizing that there are some gaps in it. However, perhaps the facts I have learned will aid in your research if you wish to take it further.
In brief, in the early 1800s a group of American businessmen placed ads in Irish newspapers offering free passage to America.
Irish immigrants poured into the growing city and were immediately told they would have to work off their voyage expenses by working on constructing levees in Louisiana, near New Orleans.
The motive was to save the lives of black slaves who were dying in the swamps there. The businessmen of that time saw it as a waste of valuable property so their answer was to replace the slaves with the Irish.
Most of the immigrants were forced to go to the mosquito-infested swamps where thousands died of various causes, primarily yellow fever.
Today the only reminders of those unfortunate men, women and children who died there are the huge mass graves containing their bodies.
The Irish in Savannah are descendants of the survivors of that group and of those who managed to avoid the ordeal.
haha I see that you have seen the El Cheapo sign too. I've been down there too.
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